MORPHSWASH · Morphodynamic of the Swash zone: Experimental and numerical modelling

One of the major shortcomings of Coastal Sediment Transport Models is the poor definition of the shoreward boundary of the fluid domain or, more specifically, of the Swash Zone (SZ). Following this assumption, the present project aims to provide both major advances in the knowledge of SZ processes and major improvements in the modelling capability of the SZ dynamics. Focus will, first, be in increasing the current knowledge of SZ dynamics and in implementing some of the recent advances in a new Lagrangian, intra-wave model, especially designed for the SZ flows. The model is such to take into account the time history of water particles when predicting the sediment transport at a given location. Previous studies suggest that Lagrangian methods offer many advantages in representing the complex processes occurring in the SZ. The next task to be undertaken in the course of the project is the inclusion of dynamical SZ mechanisms (evolving at the intra-wave time scale) in wave-averaged nearshore circulation models by using new Shoreline Boundary Conditions (SBCs). This fundamental piece of modelling has been the object of various recent implementation attempts made within the international research community. Experimental measurements of SZ flows, sediment concentration and intra-wave information of bed changes, outcome of an ongoing experimental EU project in which both the candidate and the host institution are involved, will be made available to help the modelling. Further experiments, aimed to validate the codes to be implemented, are also planned to be carried out at the host institution. The proposing research team, having available both extensive experience in SZ measurement and leading capabilities in SZ numerical modelling, is ideally positioned for implementing the complete version of SBCs in a nearshore circulation model which would, for the first time, enable proper computations of nearshore flows and morphodynamics.