FINS · Finding the Identifiable Species in Shagreen: multidisciplinary perspectives on marine shagreen and historical elasmobranch exploitation in Europe’s early modern period

Marine shagreen is a luxurious, storied leather material made from the skins of elasmobranchs (sharks, rays, skates). Admired for being visually striking, waterproof, and conveying a sense of worldliness, shagreen became coveted by the wealthy and elites of 17th-19th century northwestern Europe. Crafted from shark or ray skin, once turned into shagreen, more precise taxonomic identifications are not possible. Provided the multinational origins, the elasmobranch species targeted span the Atlantic Ocean to the Indo-Pacific. Finding the Identifiable Species in Shagreen (FINS) aims to use a multimethodological approach to analyse museum objects and unveil which species of elasmobranchs were targeted for marine shagreen production in Europe’s early modern period. Historical archival research will be undertaken to refine our knowledge of anticipated target species while non-destructive and minimally destructive methods will be employed to directly analyse shagreen objects for taxonomic identifications. Understanding the historical exploitation, trade, and demand for elasmobranch skins in this time period, which coincides with the rise of industrialised fishing efforts, is critical and a timely endeavour to establish the ecohistory of these keystone taxa. One third of all elasmobranch species are classified as being threatened with extinction by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature. A key challenge to ongoing elasmobranch conservation efforts is the lack of historical data and ecological baselines. Through a combination of biocodicology, historical analysis, ecological research, interdisciplinary collaboration, and innovative approaches, we aim to provide valuable insights into the material culture, environmental history, and ecological dynamics related to elasmobranch exploitation during this period.